Many upscale retailers are moving away from creating new lines of luxury clothing after several months of cutting back by consumers who no longer want to pay full price for garments, let alone by luxury apparel. Companies such as Banana Republic and Ann Taylor launched luxury lines last year, when retailers, consumers and especially marketers were buzzing about “accessible luxury”, a trend that has fallen flat, leaving retailers to roll back prices from these collections. Consumer spending is at an all time low in the US and luxury goods aimed at middle class consumers have been the worst hit.
Companies such as Cache Inc. closed two stores and will be shutting down another two this year. Coldwater Creek’s new Spirit line is being dropped after it was tested in 50 stores. Ann Taylor launched its Collection line in September and the response has not been good so far. Banana Republic’s BR Monogram line which is available at only 30 of its 555 stores in the US and Canada, is being tested and company officials say that it will be doing fine. The company also opened the first store stocking only the BR Monogram line in Manhattan, although company officials say that this is just a test store.
Targeting middle-class shoppers who aspired to buy ever more upscale products once seemed like a no-brainer. The strategy had been successful for everyone from Starbucks Corp. to Coach Inc., which pioneered the approach in the fashion world by pitching its high-margin $400-and-up handbags as “accessible” luxuries.
“The aspirational buyer is pulling back and not buying, or shopping at the outlet malls to a greater extent,” says Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners LLC. Shoppers with annual incomes of up to $250,000 have trimmed luxury purchases in the past year, he adds.
The higher-priced concepts may work out in the long run, once the economy recovers. And if they are done well, in a limited way, they can create a halo effect for moderately priced brands that can help in the near term, analysts say.